THE STORY BEHIND DESAVERY

Whereas most businesses start as a labour of love and then are turned into a business, I must admit it's been the opposite with DESAVERY. I could see there was a real opportunity in the growing area of natural, plant-based skincare and thought it might be an interesting area. At the same time there seemed to be a lack of products that were natural but also complex and potent. So often, 'natural' products seemed to me to be quite simple and lovely but didn't necessarily live up to what we expect from today's skincare products. As I started to do more research - and I got heavily into reading about ethnobotany, the science of skincare and recent studies around plant oils, I realised that these 'natural' ingredients, if sourced well and used therapeutically could be very complex, very effective and that amazingly, they had the power to alter brain chemistry when inhaled. All of a sudden what seemed like a good business idea had become a real passion (and to be honest by that time I had learned skincare was wildly complex, too many promises on bad science and was reliant on feeding into the insecurities around ageing and looks! Plus there weren't that many good products for men). I was hooked! And since last year, I have been immersed in the creation of DESAVERY.

Fast forward and it's amazing to hear from people who are really enjoying the benefits of my products. it's been a thrill to hear from my most knowledgeable and product-loving friends that they can see a real difference in their skin, and from people who really only started using my products for the mood enhancing properties (and to be nice to me!) but see a difference in their skin. 

Because this is my own business, I'm building it my way -  and I am not reliant on a large manufacturer. I have the ability to directly source the best ingredients and ingredients that I know are sustainably sourced. Many of my ingredients are sent within weeks of pressing and I make my products in small batches so that I can adjust for the variances in the plant oils (a little like wine, in that some harvests are different than others). Since launching I've hired a few fantastic people who are cosmetic and operational geniuses!

I have a lot of plans and ideas for DESAVERY but right now, it's all about enjoying the sourcing and making of the products so that hopefully you will try them and then spread the word! Thanks so much for taking the time to read this and supporting me.

 

XXX andrea 

Andrea Dinnick
Biohacking Beauty and The Science of Desavery
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So what is the science behind DESAVERY products?

 

There are two ways the ingredients of DESAVERY products can be absorbed by your body. The first way is through topical application  - the skin absorbs the plant oils as you massage them into your face. The second way - and this how our ingredients can affect your mood and mind - is through the inhalation of the ingredients.  Your nose is full of olfactory receptors which are directly connected to the limbic system in your brain (the part that controls emotion, hormones and cognition). The airborne aroma molecules literally hit the limbic system and start making changes in your brain chemistry. Of course the idea that smell can illicit certain emotions and feelings is not new, after all incense has been used in churches and temples for thousands of years, and we all know that lavender can make you feel more relaxed. However, what is new are the many studies that have measured the impact of specific plant oils on everything from hormone levels like cortisol, changes in neurotransmitters such as serotonin and the ability to improve focus and other cognitive functions simply through the inhalation of certain plant aromas. Part of the reason there has been so much research in this area is that scientists are exploring the idea that plant oils might hold valuable properties to help with some of the current healthcare crises: the overuse of antibiotics, addiction to painkillers and the reliance of other prescription drugs. It's this new body of science that is behind DESAVERY.

Here are some of my favourite products and the plant oils in them that make them so powerful.

Clary Sage features in our STELLAR facial serum.

There are quite a few studies around clary sage. However the most compelling is one out of Seoul in 2014. Fifty women participated in a study at the Sookmyung Women's University. After inhaling clary sage essential oil the subjects' cortisol levels dropped immediately. There was also a measured increase in the receptors that produce serotonin (this is a natural mood stabiliser). On the Beck Depression Inventory, those that inhaled the clary sage reported feeling happier overall and that was the case for those who identified themselves susceptible to depression and those who didn't. This is one of several studies on the uplifting and powerful effects of clary sage.

Bergamot features in STELLAR, RISE and REST.

Bergamot is one of the essential oils that I love. Its citrussy/floral aroma is gorgeous but it has a unique dual effect in its impact on the brain (and juniper shares this quality) because it makes you feel more alert and at the same time more calm. There are several studies that measure the very positive effecst of bergamot on mood states, the parasympathetic nervous system and the hypothalamus system.  

Rosemary features in STELLAR and LIT!

I had to throw this one in - not only does it smell wonderful, wait for it, inhaling rosemary is shown to improve several cognitive functions. Here's an excerpt from the study: "Here we show for the first time that performance on cognitive tasks is significantly related to concentration of absorbed 1,8-cineole following exposure to rosemary aroma, with improved performance at higher concentrations. Furthermore, these effects were found for speed and accuracy outcomes, indicating that the relationship is not describing a speed–accuracy trade off." Basically you can do tasks faster and with greater accuracy. I'll take it!

Vetiver features in RISE and in our rollers, MELT and SHARP

A grass native to India, vetiver is an intriguing plant. It's a wonderful species that can stop erosion and it's roots are effective in detoxifying water! In a landmark study on essential oils and ADHD vetiver oil was shown to be the most effective of all the essential oils examined. This study conducted in 2001 was with a small group although the findings were compelling.  In 2016 a more extensive study confirmed these findings; inhalation of vetiver improves alertness and task performance.

Our choice of ingredients, the amounts we use and the symbiotic relationship these volatile plant oils have with one another are all part of the formulae behind DESAVERY. In this article I haven't even touched on the therapeutic benefits these oils have on skin health! More to come!

 

 

 

 

 

Andrea Dinnick
How to use OUR PRODUCTS
As a general rule: start with your thinnest products first! Oil goes on last since it creates a barrier to water=based products.

As a general rule: start with your thinnest products first! Oil goes on last since it creates a barrier to water=based products.

DESAVERY products can provide you with a complete skincare routine or our products can easily fit in and complement your current regime . The key requirements of any skincare routine is cleansing, toning and hydration. Of course there are thousands of other products you can add in here: scrubs, exfoliators, eye creams and some of them are absolutely wonderful and it's fun to experiment and try new things. However, recent science suggests that just as we need good bacteria in our gut, a similar microbiome is needed in our skin and that all of the products we throw on our skin could be causing more chaos than calm. 

With DESAVERY I sought to find the most effective plant-based ingredients that could deliver the key skincare requirements with the most potent and proven ingredients.

So, how to use them? You can use them on their own for a complete regime (and it's all I use and have been using for the 2 years...and have seen such a positive effect!). or with you existing products.  Follow the golden skincare rule and start with the lightest product first. For me, that's water to dampen and cleanse my skin.

Next I use SMOOTH hyaluronic acid. A few drops massaged into the skin and just let it sink in. This is the 'toner' step of the routine and hyaluronic acid is a mega-moisturising molecule that can hold over 1000 times it's weight in water. Many products contain hyaluronic acid (but often in non-therapeutic doses), however SMOOTH is pure hyaluronic acid so it delivers a great smoothing result by plumping the skin.  Our HA is a plant-based product and we have infused it with essential oils that have a positive benefit on your mood and mind so you can multi-task here by treating your skin and your mind!

Next it's time for hydration and there is no better hydrating ingredient than the essential oil of the prickly pear seed which is the main ingredient in our daily serums. It's fast absorbing (and oil as a general rule absorbs more deeply into skin) but it's also very light. This is our star ingredients as it's loaded with tocopherol (vitamin e), high levels of fatty acids and antioxidants, We've teamed it up with rosehip seed oil (brightening and hydrating), meadowsweet foam oil (the plant that aspirin was originally made from so it's very soothing) and tsubaku or camellia seed oil (used by generations of Japanese women for its hydrating and softening qualities). A few drops in the palm of your hands and then massage it into your face and make sure to inhale all the great therapeutic ingredients designed to get you feeling wonderful.

That's it. You'll find in a matter of minutes the oil has absorbed into your skin so if make-up is the next step, you're all set.

If you want to use a water-based moisturiser, remember it's lightest products first, so that would fit in after SMOOTH and before the facial oil. If you are out for the day then an SPF is always a good idea after you apply your oil. 

You can use this routine either at night or in the morning or both. Massaging oil onto your skin before bed is a wonderful way to end the  day and prepare for sleep. Our REST oil is specifically designed with oils that do make you feel sleepy. SO many people have enjoyed REST, that we are working on an oil-based cleanser that will send you off to sleep! That's why we're calling it DREAM!

 

All our daily serums have prickly pear seed oil as their main ingredient. Our prickly pear seed oil comes to us directly from an organically certified farm in southern Morocco. It takes almost 8 tonnes of cactus to make just a litre of prickly pear seed oil!   

All our daily serums have prickly pear seed oil as their main ingredient. Our prickly pear seed oil comes to us directly from an organically certified farm in southern Morocco. It takes almost 8 tonnes of cactus to make just a litre of prickly pear seed oil!

 

Andrea Dinnick
Prickly Pear Seed Oil's Powerful Properties
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the treasure under the spines
— sicilian proverb

Scan the list of ingredients for each of our facial oils and you'll see that Prickly Pear Seed Oil is the first one listed.

When we started DESAVERY we looked hard to find the most potent, luxurious and effective plant oil for skin. Prickly pear seed oil came out the clear winner and when we finally sourced this precious ingredient and started using it the effect was immediate backing up all the science and literature.  Not only were the skin results great, the oil was wonderful to apply because although it is one of the richest oils, it's also one of the lightest oils.  I love it when people try our oils for the first time and their surprise at how easily the oil absorbs into the skin leaving no grease or oily feeling. This is one of the unique characteristics of prickly pear seed oil. 

Before we list all the benefits and why it's so special, a few things about how precious and yet sustainable this ingredient is. 

In a 2017 study the United Nations identified prickly pear as an ideal crop as we face climate change with prolonged droughts and desertification. Prickly pear is able to grow on land where no other crops are able to grow, providing a livelihood in areas where there are limited opportunities and the crop can be used to restore degraded land and so its cultivation can improve opportunities for broader agricultural production.

  • our prickly pear oil comes from a socially responsible enterprise in southern Morocco. The crop is organic and provides the mostly female workers with literacy and healthcare programmes.
  • the production is labour intensive as the seeds have to be removed from the plant by hand.
  • it takes several tons of prickly pear fruits to produce just 1 litre of oil - that's why it's so expensive and rarely used in mainstream beauty products.
  • our oil is sent to us directly from the cooperative within a few days of production so our small batch production is truly fresh.

 

We know it's great for the planet! But here's why it's so great for your skin:

  • Tocopherals (the natural form of vitamin e) - the highest concentration found in any plant oil with 150% more than argan oil! These fat soluble compounds make the oil extremely nourishing and hydrating and can effectively penetrate the skin's stratum corneum . These components are loaded with antioxidants that can repair the damage caused by UV rays and pollution.
  • Fatty acids - the highest percentage of unsaturated fatty acids in any plant oil with high amount of lineolic acid (this is why it's so rich and light in texture) it helps with inflammation and acne. It's super softening and moisturising and also has high amounts of oleic acid (another type of fatty acid).
  • Phytosterols - these components of the oil bind to water acting  like a sponge so it not only hydrates skin but creates a barrier preventing water loss in the skin and contributes to collagen production.
  • Polyphenols - fights free radicals and prevent damage from pollution. This component of the oil is antioxidant rich and also contributes to cell renewal and collagen production.
  • zinc and vitamin K - brightens skin and lightens dark spots.

 

We are so happy to be able to introduce you to this amazing, sustainable, potent and fantastic natural ingredient. You can get a hit of it everyday in our PURE, STELLAR and LIT facial oils where it is the first ingredient listed!