Year 6 Chemistry and your skincare routine
One of the most common questions I am asked about is the order products should be applied and whether it really matters? A good general rule of thumb is to start with the thinnest product and end with the thickest. Let’s assume there are two things we want to achieve with skincare:
put water/moisture back in your face and keep it there.
get the best out of the ingredients so they penetrate your skin and do their work.
Skincare falls into three main categories:
HUMECTANTS: draw water into the skin; these are water-attracting molecules which grab hold of water and slow down its evaporation. Examples are glycerin/glycerol, hyaluronic acid, and honey. I love hyaluronic acid because it not only draws water into the skin but also acts like a sponge so it holds many times its weight in water, giving you that dewy and plumped look.
EMOLLIENTS: these sink into the skin and replace natural skin oils; they help to bind the skin cells back together into a nice solid layer, which feels soft and smooth to the touch and they deliver other nutrients; Desavery’s Stellar Daily Serum is an emollient and contains vitamin K, antioxidants, tocopherol (vitamin e) and ingredients that encourage cell renewal. Examples of plant-based emollient ingredients are prickly pear seed oil, camellia seed oil or rosehip seed oil.
OCCLUSIVES: these are often (but not always) a heavier oil and form a protective layer to prevent moisture from evaporating, Common examples are shea butter, mineral oil, olive oil, and beeswax. Interestingly prickly pear seed oil has occlusive qualities because it is high in oleic acid and so it’s uniquely light but effective as an occlusive.
Now it’s easy to figure out what order you should apply products especially when you remind yourself that oil repels water Therefore, start with a water-based humectant against your skin (make that moisture available by dampening your skin first!), follow it with an emollient and then seal it with an occlusive. Some products incorporate all three steps in one product and others specialise in one activity.
As far as Desavery products go, our SMOOTH Hyaluronic Acid is a humectant as it is almost pure hyaluronic acid so we recommend this as step 1 on a damp face. Our Stellar Daily Serum acts as a fantastic emollient delivering huge amount of nutrients as it combines some of the best plant oils, each with unique properties so this is an effective step 2. One of the reasons I am so enamoured with prickly pear seed oil is that it is high in two kinds of fatty acids: lineolic and oleic and so it can also work as an occlusive combining step 3. For those of you who know the product, you’ll know it’s not greasy at all but it still manages to create a nice protective barrier that prevents moisture loss.
What about using other products? Just remember that if it’s water-based it should go after the SMOOTH Hyaluronic but before the Stellar Daily Serum so that it sinks in and is not repelled by the oil. I started this article by asking does it really matter? To world peace? To a Brexit deal? Of course not. But if you want to get the best out of your products it’s great to know how they are designed and how they work best.
Our Trio includes these two steps (SMOOTH and STELLAR) along with our DREAM Oil Cleanser